Backpacking in Grand Canyon - Clear Creek Trail - May 2011

Grand Canyon –Five Nights Backpacking in May 2011

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On Sunday May 22, 2011 four of us descended from the South Rim on the Bright Angel Trail. Our destination was ultimately Clear Creek some 18 miles away in a side canyon where few others would be.

Packed alongside multitudes of lightweight camping gear and particles of food was a waterproof hiking journal to document our stats and trail conditions and thus four months later the trip report is complete.

Sun 5/22, DAY 1:
Starting Point: Bright Angel Trail
Trail link: http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/Bright_Angel_Trail.pdf
Destination: Bright Angel Campground @ Phantom Ranch
Miles Covered: 9.6 miles
Elevation Loss: 4380’ elevation loss
Hiking Time: 5 hours and 15 minutes (Left at 9:45 am and arrived at 3pm)
Pack Weight: 40-45 lbs.
Temperature: 65-85°
Sky: Clear
Precipitation: 10% chance but nothing accumulated.
Wind: ~23 mph gusts
Difficulty: 3.5 out of 5
Water Availability: Plenty of sources along the way at maintained waterholes.

Trail Conditions: Bright Angel is a corridor trail, making it very popular and dense with tourists especially through the first half of the hike. Hikers, runners, tourists, horses and mules use the trail and as such it is very well-maintained and allows you comfort that if you twist an ankle someone will be along soon. The trail is steep but as long as you put one foot in front of the other and stay on the trail you have good probability of making it to your destination.

Notes: On the trail, time doubles (or seems like it anyway) from stepping out of the way for uphill hikers. We saw several horses on the trail which is a rare sight, usually only mules use the trail. We stopped at the bathrooms that are halfway to Indian Garden and then again at Indian Garden.

Since we hike at different paces Richard and I carried walkie-talkies for the first time, they had great reception and even picked up outlier conversations from the rim all the way below Indian Garden.

3 of the 4 of us ran out of water by not anticipating the amount needed to fill at each water station. We ran out right by Silver Bridge, so we only walked about 10 minutes before reaching the pump on the north side of the bridge. Richard was way ahead of us at the end and came in really handy when I radioed him that we were out of water – he was able to fill up a canteen and bring it to us as we crossed Silver Bridge. Vanessa was the only one of the four of us who had water in her bladder.

We camped at spot #3 in Bright Angel Campground. We saw squirrels but our new Outsaks and camp selection kept them at bay. The year prior we learned the squirrels are diligent in their scavenging and will climb trees, poles and probably even people to get to the snacks they desire (they are especially keen on anything with a nutty aroma).

Once we settled Richard picked up his fly rod and caught a brown trout with a dry fly tarantula pattern with a parachute topsize #12.

Mon 5/23, DAY 2:

Starting Point: Bright Angel Campground
Trail Link: http://www.nps.gov/grca/planyourvisit/upload/Clear_Creek_Trail.pdf
Destination: Clear Creek Campground
Miles Covered: 8.7 miles
Elevation Gain: 1250’ elevation gain (HOWEVER, please note we gained and lost multiple times, aggregated together we probably gained at least double this)
Hiking Time: 7.5 hours (Left at 9:30 am and arrived at 5pm)
Pack Weight: 48-53 lbs.
Temperature: high 80s on trail, 70s at camp
Sky: Cloudy (thank God)
Precipitation: rain in the night with thunder and lightning
Wind: very gusty
Difficulty: 4.5 out of 5
Water Availability: NONE

Trail Conditions: The first half of Clear Creek trail is easier and better maintained than the second, undoubtedly because it’s more traveled. There are panoramic views everywhere; nearly every 100 feet could be a scenic viewpoint. The last half of the trail was eroded and overgrown desert. We followed the cairns with ease though. There is no shade, so the clouds overhead were incredibly appreciated. The last quarter of the trail is exposed, slightly scary at times when the wind gusts blew our tired bodies towards the loose ledges that could vaguely be called trails.

Notes: The guidebooks and trail descriptions say Clear Creek is just 1000’ above Phantom Ranch, but what they fail to mention is that you gain 1000’ multiple times and lose several hundred at a time going up and around washes and ridges. There are endless ridges. This was a very difficult foot stomper hike with 50 pounds on our backs. We saw 5 people on the trail – 4 of them came on the first half and the 5th showed up at camp. The last quarter mile was very steep and shaley. It seems the trail was established some time ago and now it’s overgrown. You could slip or fall at several places and we would not recommend this for kids or inexperienced hikers. A mule could not make the last quarter of a mile of trail (at least we don’t think it could). With that said, it is incredibly beautiful; temples loom above in every direction. The hike is long. We think it’s best to plan for several days at Clear Creek in order to provide enough quality time to not only recuperate but to experience the beauty of the creek and area.

Tue 5/24, DAY 3:
Starting Point: Clear Creek Campground
Destination: river hiking and back to camp
Miles Covered: Creek goes 5 miles to Cheyava Falls, we went about 1 mile before seeing a naked man and turning promptly around.
Elevation Gain: 1275’ to Cheyava Falls, I doubt we even gained 500’.
Hiking Time: 1:30 (Left at 1:30 pm and arrived at 3 pm)
Pack Weight: 10 lbs.
Temperature: 80s
Sky: Mostly clear with occasional clouds
Precipitation: none
Wind: gusts up to 40mph
Difficulty: 1 out of 5
Water Availability: everywhere, but bring a filter.

Trail Conditions: River hiking. Rocks were solid not slippery. Water was below knee-level the entire time. Overgrown plants lined the river’s edges. We took hiking sticks to help balance our footing. Water shoes are a definite. I used my 5.10 hiking shoes with neoprene socks and then dried them on a tree the next day (this saved me weight and space as I didn’t need to carry a separate pair of shoes).

Notes: Water filter is necessary at Clear Creek Campground and be warned that it could clog by gravel.

We were asked to pack our poo by carrying Disposal Johns in and out of the park and report back on our experience. 2 of the 4 of us attempted Disposal Johns while the other 2 opted immediately to dig catholes. 1 of the ones who attempted it, quickly changed her mind and adopted the cathole method. This brought up hours of campsite chatter as we marked our territory and discussed the history of ancient pooing techniques. What is the history of sewage? Was it used for crop fertilization? Did each family have their own rules or were there common practices for entire tribes? Overall Disposal Johns had a low satisfaction rating among females for many reasons, which, if you’re interested, I can tell you all about in a more private setting, just email me.

Wind was sporadic and picked up around 10 am. We had to be vigilant in securing the fly, using large rocks to fortify the stakes. We saw two new hikers and one of us saw a naked guy’s hairy nether regions. We also saw frogs and lizards. We learned that ants like margarita mix. We read, as a group, 140 pages of The Man Who Walked Through Time by Colin Fletcher. The creek was used to cool our beverages by roping the beverage bag up to a tree. Our Outsaks (aka ratbags) made it through the night buried under rocks with no issues, no critters, and no ants marched near. A great way to refresh ourselves was to rinse our clothes in the creek and dry them on a rock. Alcohol and/or peroxide were used routinely to treat our blisters and kill the gunk build up. In order to prepare for the hike out and to try to carry the lightest pack possible we began sorting and eating our food based on its weight. Lesson learned: eat all the heavy dinners first. The rest day was hugely impactful to our quality of life and our trips out.

Wed 5/25, DAY 4:

Starting Point: Clear Creek Campground
Destination: nowhere
Miles Covered: zero
Elevation Gain: Less than 10'
Temperature: 90s, very hot at noon
Sky: Clear
Precipitation: none
Wind: light, with a few gusts after 5pm
Water Availability: everywhere, but bring a filter.

Notes: We slept with no rainfly the night before in order to make the most of the breezes and enjoy the desert sky. In the heat of noon, under the canopy of cottonwoods I was lulled to a napping state by the sparkling of their leaves. While one of us was doing his “business,” he saw a snake. Our campmates moved their tent due to an ant infestation.

Our first fuel canister (for two of us) was done before lunch- we had used it 8 times and think the Primus pan was a great fuel-saver as it expedited the boiling point tenfold. My last dinner at this camp was a menagerie of dried food choices – mashed potatoes, corn and red pepper pasta – as I tried to eliminate all the heaviest items from my sack without sacrificing calories for the next day. Katmandu Curry with 64 grams of fiber may not have been the right choice – next backpack trip will have new requirements when it comes to selecting dinner options. Louisana Rice and Beans had a lot of fiber too. The recommended daily allowance is only 25. Richard continued to use the Disposal Johns and says that the enclosed wipe was dry.

Camp shoes are recommended – flip flops or Tevas specifically. Richard loves his hiking boots and continues to wear them every chance he gets as he has no blisters at all – the Soloman XA Pro 3D Ultra Gortex (not for use IN the water though). We saw zero people all day. 2 crows circled and squawked. The Razos continued to have water filter woes with gravel tripping them up. We talked of invented a folding titanium pot, a camping dominoes set and a commode.
Another question we pose today is what are the black worms in the water? We invent species for them and think they are baby leeches. They are in fact black fly larvae. We wonder why there are no fish in Clear Creek—later we learn the creek drops off downstream and the fish can’t swim up it. The frogs that sound like sheep that begin to make noise in the later afternoon also entrance us. Later we identify them as Canyon Tree Frogs.


Thu 5/25, DAY 5:

Starting Point: Clear Creek Campground
Destination: Bright Angel Campground
Miles Covered: 8.7 miles
Elevation Loss: 1250’ but we gain and lose all day.
Hiking Time: 5:30 (Left at 6:05 am and arrived at 11:30 am)
Pack Weight: 35-40 pounds
Temperature: 90s
Sky: Clear but cloudy in the morning
Precipitation: none
Wind: gusts after 8am
Difficulty: 4 out of 5
Water Availability: none

Trail Conditions: It was easier going out than it was coming in. The sketchy part was done quickly as it was the first thing encountered after leaving in the morning. Since we left as the sun was rising we had some magical moments climbing up and onto the Tonto Platform.  Once up there, the wind picked up. As we crossed Sumner Wash we saw brown rattlesnake, bats and a chuckwalla hiding under a rock.

Notes: Rated the hike back a 4 for exposed areas, no water, sketchy/unstable areas, and few people. Could be a 3.7 or so but winds, sun, etc can make it much more difficult. Last night Sergio saw a cream colored snake with a pattern. Vanessa saw a pink rattler on the trail today. Richard found a brown rattler that caused us to go off trail to go around it because it was pissed. The last mile was a foot pounder!

We hit camp at 11:30 and as a group we had 12 Tecates, 3 lunch sacks, hit the clean people bathrooms, and set up camp (#3 again). Richard fished the Colorado successfully – 2 rainbow and 4 brown trout at the confluence using a parachute dryfly #12 and elkhair #14. We learned this via walkie-talkie as the rest of us who weren’t wearing “pillows on our feet” were not inclined to walk the short distance down to the River, opting instead to cool our swollen feet and blisters in the Bright Angel Creek which happened to be running alongside our new favorite campsite #3. We wandered over to the lodge area around sunset to hear about the California Condor but were too tired to finish listening and went back to camp and promptly fell asleep under the stars with no rainfly.

Fri 5/25, DAY 6:
Starting Point: Bright Angel Campground
Destination: South Rim
Miles Covered: 9.6 miles
Elevation Gain: 4380’
Hiking Time: 5:35 (Left at 7:05 am and arrived at 12:40 pm)(last hiker up at 1:45 pm)
Pack Weight: 25-30 pounds
Temperature: 80 at Indian Garden, 95 tops
Sky: Clear, no shade, no relief.
Precipitation: none
Wind: sadly, none
Difficulty: 3 out of 5
Water Availability: great

Trail Conditions: Ripe with tourists. Hot! No wind. Well-traveled trail with ruts. Red rock section never ends. Lots of mule poo to walk around. Heard the Kaibab trail is also exposed to sun with no water sources but has a great view. Some places are steep enough you could fall.

Notes: Stay away from field trips and their mothers. I stopped 3 times – at the bathroom across Silver Bridge, at Indian Garden and at 1 ½ mile stop. No trail etiquette by most – UPHILL HAS THE RIGHT OF WAY. Also need to create awareness in the hiking etiquette “STAY TO THE RIGHT.”  Richard says, “secret to hiking the Grand Canyon is one step at a time.” Seeing all the people not in shape at the top made us feel like badasses. Vanessa listened to her ipod most of the way up to get extra motivation- she would like to remember to create a metal mix next time. At the bar Richard says “the one thing all nations have in common is alcohol. We all speak different languages but get along.”

We discussed why we do this type of hiking and come up with answers such as hiking keeps us humble, allowing us to appreciate the little things like showers and plumbing. Hiking is a way to reduce the stress in our life to just the basic necessities like survival, food, water and shelter. We enjoy the accomplishment of pushing ourselves and overcoming the challenge. It’s a time to reconnect with nature and replenish our souls. And then we change the subject and discuss inventing a Propel-style beer powder before heading into the restaurant for some fried food to replenish our grease intake.